Photo: Christian Bolz (크리스티안 볼츠) · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hongdae — one street, two moods: day and night
Hongdae grew up around Hongik University and is Seoul's hub for art, music and youth culture. By day, browse small shops and cafés; by night, catch street performances and eat your way down the street.
Getting there
Exit 9 of Hongik University Station (Line 2) is the one most people use — the main street starts right outside. The Airport Railroad (AREX) and the Gyeongui–Jungang Line stop at the same station. From Incheon Airport you can ride the AREX all-stop train here without changing (the express train doesn't stop here).
What to see
Hongdae Walking Street (걷고싶은거리)
A pedestrian street leading from exit 9. On weekend evenings, buskers perform all along it.
Yeonnam-dong
Toward exit 3 of Hongik University Station. Cafés and restaurants line the Gyeongui Line Forest Park, a former rail line turned into a park. It's quieter than central Hongdae and good for a slow walk.
Sangsu-dong and Hapjeong
Within walking distance of Hongdae, with plenty of small, independent cafés and craft workshops.
What to do
Shopping
Lots of affordable clothing shops, plus cosmetics and accessory stores on every street.
Busking
Crowds start gathering around 7 p.m. Expect singing, dance and instrumental acts.
Cafés
Many cafés are tucked away on upper floors or in basements. Signs are small and easy to miss, so look up and down.
What to eat
With so many students around, prices are relatively low. Many places serve single portions of kalguksu, gimbap, tteokbokki or dakgalbi, and many stay open late.
Street food and pojangmacha (tented street bars) appear from the evening.
Taking a break
For restrooms, subway stations, larger cafés and shopping buildings are your best bet. There are almost no public restrooms on the street.
Best times to visit
Most shops are closed in the morning, so come after 11 a.m. Afternoons are for shopping and cafés; from the evening, busking and street food take over. After 10 p.m., it's mostly bars.
Good to know
Weekend evenings are very crowded and slow going. The alleys are a maze, so keep a map app open.